ABOVE: Gina the pup is the model showing about how much slack to have in the long lead. Even at a longer distance keep it ready to reach the dog with a quick and well-timed jerk.
Long-lead training of dogs is a technique to which I often refer in conversations or writing about pig catching. So what is it exactly...?
Long-lead training is a physical way of affecting the psychology of your dog. Even the most hard-headed hunting dog can be corrected without the need for violence. Certainly there is a pull on the dog's neck via the lead but nothing like some of the old methods to adjust the attitude of a tough dog.
There are two keys to it. The first is timing. The second is distance.
Start with a piece of rope about 15 to 20 metres long. Attach a dog clip to one end and that end to the dog. Loop the rope over your secondary hand (left if you're right handed and vice versa) and let the lead coming in and go out as the dog does what it does.
Timing....This is the most important factor in the process. You are looking to create a situation in which you will call on the dog for its attention, give it the chance to respond, read that response and act. For instance, allow the dog to wander at will (attached to the lead) and then call it to you. You must have the lead loose but it still needs to connect firmly with the dog's neck for this to work properly. You get used to how loose to have it through a bit of practice (see the pic above...). When you call the dog if it looks at you and then goes to look away, jerk the lead. Don't pull the dogs head off, it's not about pain, it's about surprise and redirection of attention. Have the collar (preferably chain) high behind the ears for this too. It makes a difference. I usually say the dog's name (or whatever the command) again and if the dog still doesn't come I jerk it again but not as much. I find that about two third to half pressure lets them know that the first instance was not an accident. The timing of the jerk has to be spot on for immediate affect but even if you get it a bit wrong the dog will get some sort of message and you will get better with practice. Some dogs go insane and fight it all. Let them and stay calm. You can't be annoyed for this to work either because it will be a confusing intimidatory signal to the dog which can over ride whatever lesson you are trying to teach. And be consistent. Don't say anything more than once without jerking that lead. Every time you speak it has to mean something. The timing can be worked out by watching the dog. You will see them hear you (ear movement) and ignore you (ear movement, eye movement, body movement). You jerk the lead as close as possible to the time after the dog hears you and is making the decision to ignore. Get it right and it changes the way the dog thinks for years. I've found that about 20 minutes to an hour for two or three days is enough to get any dog into shape, including stock-proofing.
Distance...This is where the long part of the lead comes into play. Dogs get used to how far you can reach to get them. (That's why so many dogs react if you pretend to pick up a rock, they know your reach has just been extended...). If you learn to manage tension on the lead to allow a quick response at distance (say 15 metres), the impact on the dog's thinking is dramatic. It changes the dog's concept of your reach, in much the same way as electric shock training collars. They are illegal in New South Wales so I've never had any experience of shock collars. I can tell you though, hunters that have used both have told me the long lead method is quicker....
The distance at which you can command the dog's attention and action sets in the dog's mind and translates into excellent manageability in the field when everything is happening fast and is fuelled by a lot of adrenalin.
Long-lead training sounds like a difficult technique to describe because you almost have to see the difference between a good job and a bad job. It's a split second's difference. But once you see it, it looks obvious. It's all about reading the dog and whether or not he/she is giving you 100 per cent of their attention. In the field this type of training has resulted in us being able to call a dog off a small pig to grab a bigger one. I recommend it.
If there are any questions, just ask and I'll do my best to fill in any gaps I've left...
Cheers
Long-lead training is a physical way of affecting the psychology of your dog. Even the most hard-headed hunting dog can be corrected without the need for violence. Certainly there is a pull on the dog's neck via the lead but nothing like some of the old methods to adjust the attitude of a tough dog.
There are two keys to it. The first is timing. The second is distance.
Start with a piece of rope about 15 to 20 metres long. Attach a dog clip to one end and that end to the dog. Loop the rope over your secondary hand (left if you're right handed and vice versa) and let the lead coming in and go out as the dog does what it does.
Timing....This is the most important factor in the process. You are looking to create a situation in which you will call on the dog for its attention, give it the chance to respond, read that response and act. For instance, allow the dog to wander at will (attached to the lead) and then call it to you. You must have the lead loose but it still needs to connect firmly with the dog's neck for this to work properly. You get used to how loose to have it through a bit of practice (see the pic above...). When you call the dog if it looks at you and then goes to look away, jerk the lead. Don't pull the dogs head off, it's not about pain, it's about surprise and redirection of attention. Have the collar (preferably chain) high behind the ears for this too. It makes a difference. I usually say the dog's name (or whatever the command) again and if the dog still doesn't come I jerk it again but not as much. I find that about two third to half pressure lets them know that the first instance was not an accident. The timing of the jerk has to be spot on for immediate affect but even if you get it a bit wrong the dog will get some sort of message and you will get better with practice. Some dogs go insane and fight it all. Let them and stay calm. You can't be annoyed for this to work either because it will be a confusing intimidatory signal to the dog which can over ride whatever lesson you are trying to teach. And be consistent. Don't say anything more than once without jerking that lead. Every time you speak it has to mean something. The timing can be worked out by watching the dog. You will see them hear you (ear movement) and ignore you (ear movement, eye movement, body movement). You jerk the lead as close as possible to the time after the dog hears you and is making the decision to ignore. Get it right and it changes the way the dog thinks for years. I've found that about 20 minutes to an hour for two or three days is enough to get any dog into shape, including stock-proofing.
Distance...This is where the long part of the lead comes into play. Dogs get used to how far you can reach to get them. (That's why so many dogs react if you pretend to pick up a rock, they know your reach has just been extended...). If you learn to manage tension on the lead to allow a quick response at distance (say 15 metres), the impact on the dog's thinking is dramatic. It changes the dog's concept of your reach, in much the same way as electric shock training collars. They are illegal in New South Wales so I've never had any experience of shock collars. I can tell you though, hunters that have used both have told me the long lead method is quicker....
The distance at which you can command the dog's attention and action sets in the dog's mind and translates into excellent manageability in the field when everything is happening fast and is fuelled by a lot of adrenalin.
Long-lead training sounds like a difficult technique to describe because you almost have to see the difference between a good job and a bad job. It's a split second's difference. But once you see it, it looks obvious. It's all about reading the dog and whether or not he/she is giving you 100 per cent of their attention. In the field this type of training has resulted in us being able to call a dog off a small pig to grab a bigger one. I recommend it.
If there are any questions, just ask and I'll do my best to fill in any gaps I've left...
Cheers
No comments:
Post a Comment